Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Broken cars suck

Location: Sunshine Caravan Park, Mt Isa
Kms so far: 28500 ish
When you travel, things often go wrong. I like to think I’m pretty philosophical at these times, and look for the positives when all your plans have gone out of several windows, down about 12 stories and have subsequently been run over by a garbage truck. For example, last year I was in the Gulf of Carpentaria on my motorbike and rocked up at a road house, out of petrol. That is, the roadhouse was out of petrol... for several days! On the up, I met some interesting people and had a great mixed grill from the diner. However, as I write this it would be fair to say our plans have indeed gone under the garbage truck tyres on the street many floors below the window. And I am sincerely struggling to look on the goddam bright side.
We’ve killed another two tyres, both on the Nathan River Road between Roper Bar and Boorollola. The first was around here:

View Larger Map
The second was a little further south on the same road. Each time, the tyre has been irreparably damaged, the second quite spectacularly so:
Buggered
After some more tyre off the wheel antics by yours truly, we got under way again only to experience a new and exciting hurdle to our progress... enter stage left Engine-cutting-out-at-random!
We were a little concerned about a reluctance to start that the car had developed in Katherine gorge, but once we got it running after a few seconds of cranking, it ran like it usually does. I had made a mental note to change the fuel filter and give the fuel sedimenter a once over when we got to the east coast. Not to be, unfortunately... less than 600 kms later the engine lost power and cut out when Lauren was driving.
Now, the tyre issues weren’t a big deal as although each flat was a hassle, with time and effort we could sort them out. The engine cutty outy thing was a big deal though as I couldn’t work out what was going on. I drained the sedimenter, checked out the fuel filter and ensured it was flowing fuel, bled air out of the fuel system at the back of the injector pump, and checked the fuel lines for holes from stone damage but could not find any fault. The initial bleeding of the fuel system got us up and going, only to have the engine cut out about 50 kms later on. The next day the thing was hard to start and once going it wouldn’t rev and cut out several times before it ran smoothly. Things were seriously tense- we were still a good 60 kms from the next person, let alone any form of civilisation!
We did manage to make it out to the Cape Crawford roadhouse, where I hoped that a fresh tank of fuel may sort out the issue (my thinking was that we may have had a dodgy tank of fuel from the last service station), but no cigar. The car was hard to start about 200 kms further on, and then cut out at the next Roadhouse.
By this stage it had become clear that we were out of danger- we were back on sealed roads with a reasonable amout of traffic on them. So we headed for Camooweal, just across the border in Queensland. This was the biggest town around, so we figured new tyres and diesel mechanics would be in abundance there. Not so, unfortunately... there was two service stations, two pubs and about 600 people in the town! So we stayed the night, had awful food from the pub, lots of beer, spoke to a looser Qantas captain who wouldn’t stop bragging about how much cash he had (he was travelling alone... and looked as though this was something he did a lot...) and set off for Mount Isa the next day.
The car gave up about 100 metres from the Caravan Park that we are camped in here in Isa. This was on Monday morning when we were headed to the mechanics! I tried bleeding the fuel system again without any luck, so we called the RACV and shed the odd tear as Lauper got loaded on to the back of the tow truck.
The mechanic now knows what is wrong with the car (the fuel sedimenter is completely blocked and needs replacing) and its going to be about $700 bucks once the new one comes in and is fitted! ARGH! This sucks, obviously, but the biggest thing that I am struggling to deal with is sitting on my arse in Mt Isa. It took us a couple of hours to see all the attractions that Isa has to offer and I cannot recommend any of them to you. The beer is cheap in the bars, but that is about it. So we’ve now had two days of doing nothing, and are facing another day and a half of the same- we can’t get tyres till Friday morning.
The other thing that sucks heavily is that we missed out on going to Lawn Hill National Park (near Camooweal) and don’t think that we can afford/have time to backtrack and check it out. Lawn Hill is supposed to be one of the most spectacular places in Queensland. Bummer.
So we’re bored, poor, and stuck in a mining town. We can’t even really justify going to the pub and getting drunk due to the expense and total lack of anything vegetarian anywhere near a menu around here. But still, it beats going to work I guess. Sucks to be you guys.

BTW: I've uploaded a whole lot of pics onto flickr.

I've also removed the (broken) Flickr plugin from this page.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Crocs, rocks and culture.

Location: Garnamarr Camp (Near Jim Jim and Twin Falls, Kakadu National Park)

Kms so far: 26793

Post authored on: 22/10/09

So, here I am again, posting precisely one month after my last effort. Not really cricket given how I harped on about being able to blog from anywhere with my fancy wireless internet access, so I hereby vow to blog more.
No doubt that I’ll break it quicker than Cassinova would break a wedding vow...
Anyways, again it seems that a lot has happened since the last update. We’re now in Kakadu, which you’ve probably gathered from the location info above. Here’s a quick summary of what’s occurred in the last month:
Windjana Gorge (Gibb River Road, Kimberley, Western Australia) – Saw my first fresh water Croc!
Bell Gorge (Gibb River Road, Kimberley, Western Australia) – One of the best swims of my life!
Mornington Wilderness Camp (Gibb River Road, Kimberley, Western Australia) – Wow. Private not-for-profit wilderness reserve with some pretty awesome conservation projects going on (if you believe all of the claims of their camp liason officer). Google Australian Wildlife Conservatory for more info.
Galvin’s Gorge (Gibb River Road, Kimberley, Western Australia) – dislocated my thumb bending the numberplate back in to position after a river crossing. Not recommended.
Mitchell Plateau (Kimberley, Western Australia) – hellish drive in over corrugations that you could loose a small pacific island nation in. Lauren commented that even the corrugations had corrugations... and she wasn’t joking! Broke two wheel studs (the bits you screw the wheel nuts onto) off the right rear here. Expensive and sucky. On the up, the Mitchell falls (which were dry) rates as one of the most beautiful places I have ever been in my life. Topped off the walk with a bit of a chopper flight... saw a pod of dolphins off the Kimberley coast, but no crocs. Wow. Killed a rear shock absorber on the road in tho. Also, I got heat stroke. Also not recommended. Damn it’s hot up here this time of year.
El Questro Wilderness Park (Gibb River Road, Kimberley, Western Australia) – Tourist trap, but well appointed. Lots of people, even more cows, but some awesome scenery and lots to do once you’ve shelled out for 30 bucks for the access pass. Probably one of the best outback tourist experiences on offer. But don’t go getting all warm and fuzzy about how they’re looking after pristine wilderness- they aint. They run cattle, and lots off ‘em. See Mornington Wilderness Camp for warm fuzzyness.
Kununurra (Western Australia) – Beer, Steak the size of your head, A spiked tyre, a delaminating tyre and a large bill for wheel stud replacement. The two tyres needed changing, but we were looking at a minimum of 500 bucks to get them here. Enter stage left Me, and Two Tyre Levers.... after much sweat, grunting, cursing sweat and sweat, I successfully repaired the spiked (and unfixable, according to the tyre joints) tyre with a 5 buck patch kit and a new tube. It held (but leaked) all the way to Darwin...
Douglas Hot Springs (Nothern Territory) – You can burn your feet here if you go too close to the springs. Magnificent place... just had to go looking for cool spots in the river as hot springs aren’t so great when its already 38 degrees and seriously humid... Also, Butterfly Gorge was a cracker... swim over the pool and climb the falls to find several plunge pools... by yourself because you’re off the tourist track now. Choice.
Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) National Park (Western Australia)– Wow. World heritage area, and you can see why. Must visit. Nasty corrugations (hmm, there seems to be a theme developing here...) but spectacular rock formations.
Gregory National Park (Northern Territory) – They were de-stocking the joint (I.e. shooting cattle from choppers). Therefore we were unable to do anything but drive in and camp, then drive out. Bummer.
Litchfield National Park (Northern Territory) – Very cool. Gorges, falls, tropical rainforests and termites that know where north is. Car has developed a bunny hop... hmm.
Darwin! (Northern... oh so you know that already, smart guy?) - Two new tyres for three hundred bucks, sweet. Let’s just hope that the latest in quality Chinese radial is up to the task... New shocks have sorted out the back axel (wow... snap oversteer on corrugations is not fun). Also, Darwin Waterski Club for Parma, beer and waterside beer garden was a serious winner. And it was firetwirling night!
Shady Camp, Mary River National Park (Essex... no wait... Northern Territory) – Crocs a plenty. We saw our first salties here... in fact, this place has the dubious honour of having the highest density of Salties anywhere in Aus. And yet I slept like a baby... Oh, and there was loads of frogs living in the table in our campsite!
Kakudu (blah) - That’s where we are! This place is pretty cool. We headed out of the park and into the edge of Arnhem Land today to visit Injalak, an Aboriginal Art Centre... Very cool. I had a good chat to one of the artists who was whipping up an x-ray painting of a Croc taking a Wallaby. We also picked up a piece or two safe in the knowledge that our money was going to the Artists and their families, rather than to some dodgy gallery owner in Darwin. We’ve also checked out some of the rock galleries at Ubirr – remarkable stuff, remarkable culture.
So, ahead lies a wetlands cruse at Yellow Water (Kakudu), Koolpin Gorge, a limited access camp again in Kakudu, and then on to Katherine Gorge. After that we’ll be making the dash for the Queensland coast, because the temperature and humidity up here are relentless. You seriously cannot do anything that involves movement from about 10 in the morning to about 4 in the arvo... it’s that hot.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Broome. It's hot.

Location: Broome Caravan Park, Broom, Western Australia

Kms so far: 21,144

So we are in Broome. We left Perth on the 29th of August, spent 9 odd days getting up here in a mad rush, then flew back to Melbourne for a couple of weddings. Those nine days were fairly eventful, including two boggings (at the same place!), one broken laptop screen (now fixed), one broken stove (now replaced), one broken radiator grill (now cable tied), one broken tent pole (not fixed, yet...) and one flat tyre (changed).

We've covered some pretty amazing places, including:

Shark Bay (Francis Peron National Park)
Ningaloo reef
Karijini National Park
The Pinnicles
Kalbarri National Park
Overlander Roadhouse (best sausage roll ever. $4 and it was as big as your head!)

It was pretty awesome going back to Melbourne for a flying visit, catching up with everyone and seeing Russ, Elissa, Stick and Caz tie the knot. Obviously, not all together. That kind of open relationship is not legal in Victoria as far as I know...

The next bit of the trip holds some pretty interesting ground to cover. First, Cape Leveque north of Broome. Then off to Derby and on to the Gibb River Road, straight through the guts of the Kimberly. It promises to be Gorges-a-plenty.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Mobile blogging is so five minutes ago

Location: 2.5 metres from computer.

Kms so far: more than last post, but less than next post.

As far as bandwagons go this one left the parking lot a while ago and is a fair way down the parade route, but i've finally caught up and jumped aboard. You are now reading the blogging equivalent of me picking up a banjo and playing out of tune on the aforementioned wagon.

Thats right, i'm writing this on a phone! Three cheers for mobile browsers! Some would question the point of laboriously tapping out a post on a mobile when I am at home, a mere handfull of metres from a perfectly good computer. To them I say word not in dictionary.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Monday, June 8, 2009

The car called Cindy part II: Pimp my 4wd.

Location: Glendower Street, Perth WA

Kms so far: 16000 ish

So I rambled on at length about picking a car for this trip last time, and no doubt I bored most people to death. Now that I’ve done my bit for overpopulation, I’m going to follow up the last post with a bit of a rundown of what I did to Lauper in the 12 odd days I had between picking her up and setting off. Pretty much everything was focused on making sure that she’d make it past the Western Ring Road, and that once we were beyond the outer reaches of civilisation (read: the western suburbs) that she’d support our epicurean lifestyle.
The first thing that dad and I did was tackle a full service. All oils (diffs, gearbox, engine) were replaced, along with appropriate filters. The tappets were set. The front wheel bearings were removed, inspected, accidentally crushed with a drift, replaced and reinstalled. We ran out of time to check out the rear wheel bearings, but judging by the as-new state of the front ones (including the nice fresh grease that they were rolling in when we first disassembled the front hubs), the rears would have been looked after by the previous owner. Finally, we gave the car a full grease and we were in business.
Then I attended to the required accessories. Lauren’s dad assisted with the manufacture of some 8mm plate steel recovery points for the front of the car. I added a $50 hand winch, which should provide a little insurance to get us out of any tight spots... It may not be a super piece of recovery kit, but it’s better than nothing.
Next was a pretty serious attack on the electrics. First up was a second battery- acquired from Peninsula batteries for $230 odd was a nice little 70ah AGM deep cycle battery. This provides power to the fridge and accessory points at the rear of the car. Fitting this battery was a bit of a mission though... the original intention was to have the 2nd battery under the bonnet, but space was tight, and we didn’t have enough time to fart around moving air cleaners, etc to make it fit. So I mounted it under the rear of the driver’s seat where it’s held in perfectly by the seat frame and a tie down strap.
Along with the battery was the appropriate cabling and isolation. The whole idea of the second battery is that you can run the fridge all night and all day without fear that it’ll flatten your main battery, leaving you stranded when you wish set off in the morning. To achieve this, I used a simple isolator switch (the same kind you fit to race cars so that marshals can isolate the battery should you crash) which the old man had lying around in the shed. They can be bought for about 15 bucks if I remember correctly. I then wired this to the positive terminal of the main battery, and ran some sturdy 4age cable through the engine bay and across the cabin to the driver’s seat and finally wired it up to the second battery. I earthed the second battery back to the chassis.
I also ran 50 amp wire back to the rear of the cargo space, where I fitted two outlets- one BMW style 12v outlet, and one cigarette lighter outlet. The BMW outlets are excellent- the plugs click in really firmly so they do not risk coming out over bumps or when you’re loading the car. Very important, when you consider that this connection is all that stands between you and rotten food!
I added another one of these plugs under the dash, wired to the main electrics so that I can run tyre pumps, lights, etc when the car is running.
I ripped out the original equipment tape player and replaced it with a Pioneer single disc head unit. This involved wiring in an additional fuse box and running cables to power the head unit- I used 20amp wire to minimise voltage drop so that the head unit’s amp could perform at its best. The head unit has a front USB input that supports FAT32 drives, so I got my trusty 60gb portable hard drive, built a 60gb FAT32 partition on it (this is possible using Linux) and loaded it up with MP3’s. I then ditched the front speakers in favour of Pioneer 4” splits, mounting the tweeters on top of the dash. In addition, I shoehorned in my trusty 8” DEI subbie, which was previously owned by a world famous bass player who built the best enclosure possible for it. Once this was wired in (with my old Jaycar 200 watt RMS amp) we now had one of the best budget car audio outfits I’ve come across. Considering I already had the sub and amp, the total expenditure was around $300 for the head unit and speakers. Seriously, this is the best sounding car stereo I’ve installed, and I’ve done about 15 or so!
Next came a replacement rear door, as the original one did not have a spare tyre carrier and the tyre was in the rear luggage space. I got the replacement door off a bloke in Geelong for $20, so chucking that on gave us a load of extra space in the back of the car. In addition, a pair of roof racks were borrowed from Lauren’s parents, which allowed a second spare to be stashed on the roof. Two spare tyres are very important when you go into the outback- first of all, a second spare may get you out of trouble when you experience a number of flats, and if all else fails, you can burn the tyre and the smoke can be seen from miles away. Also on the roof are two 10 litre jerry cans, giving about 150 kms of emergency fuel, and the tent.
Also, a large box of spares went in, including a spare uni joint, front and rear wheel bearings, cv joint cover, filters, oil, coolant, fence wire, recovery equipment, chemiweld, 5min epoxy, etc etc etc.
So after all that, we have a very comfortable, reliable (touch wood!) and resilient car which we can rely on no matter what we come across. So far, Lauper has proved to be unstoppable, eating up all kinds of terrain and delivering us to parts of Australia that not everyone gets to see. We are very lucky to have her as part of our little expedition!

Thursday, May 14, 2009

The car called Cindy

Location: Glendower Street, Perth WA
Kms so far: 14267

I think it’s time for a long overdue introduction to Cindy Lauper, our 1985 Holden Jackaroo. She is many things to us: our primary mode of transport, our refuge from adverse conditions, our fully stick stereo system and our lifeblood, without which cold cheese and white goon would not be possible. She’s also super stylish, comfortable, and above all, a pop icon.

First, the specifications: She is a 1985 build of the first generation of Holden Jackaroo, which is really an Isuzu imported from Japan and rebranded by Holden. She’s equipped with a SuperPowerfulTM 2.2 litre Turbo Diesel engine, equipped with all the cutting edge technology that 1985 had to offer... like, erm, a Turbo. And not just any Turbo... we’re talking a plain bearing jobbie a bit smaller than a Barbie hairdryer, and with slightly less output. Notable in its absence is any form of Intercooler, yet again a nod to early 80’s Turbo technology which can be summed up by the philosophy “See that engine on the shelf over there, Mr Graduate Engineer? Drop the compression and bolt on this Turbo. There’s a good lad. Make sure you don’t forget to tell marketing to print out some very big ‘Turbo’ decals for us to slap on the bonnet, sides and rear of the car. Run along now!”
For all my mockery, this engine is pretty bloody good. It may only put out about 1.5hddp* and working out the 0-100km/h times may require the hour hand of your watch, but it has not missed a beat. We’ve had it wound up chugging along at 95-100 all day through 47 degree heat with aircon on full blast and the only hint of complaint is the temperature running a bit higher than normal. We’ve also charged at some pretty crazy sand hills, even fully loaded, and it’s made it up without getting bogged. That says a lot- soft sand requires serious horsepower, and that is something that little old Diesels are just not designed to put out. It’s also a pretty quiet diesel- It puts the Land Rover 300tdi to shame and would give the TD5 a run for its money on the dB front.
The driveline of the car is a little less hardcore than previous four wheel drives I’ve been involved with. She has a part time four wheel drive system with auto locking hubs. She’s also got a two range transfer case, which means you can engage ‘low range’ to gear the car lower, allowing for much greater torque to be applied in each gear (and much less speed! Flat out in 5th gear low range is around 50km/h). This is great for ploughing through sand and up steep hills. She’s got independent front suspension, generally a no-no on serious four wheel drives as it doesn’t maintain the ground clearance under the front of the car over rough terrain. Finally, she’s got a limited slip rear differential in the back to help her traction on slippery stuff.
The spec sheet reads like a serious four wheel driver’s bad dream. Their Landcruser has more power than you can wave a stick at, beam axles front and rear, full time four wheel drive, big spotlights and a bulls skull attached to the bonnet and therefore would go all kinds of places our Lauper would never even dream of going. To them, our car is more of a toy than a serious outback adventurer’s car. Fortunately, they are wrong. Lauper has taken us over all kinds of terrain, including some of the most hard core four wheel driving tracks that I’ve come across (and I’ve seen a few in my old Landy and with Dad in his Defender) without getting bogged. We’ve come close- the afore mentioned dune hopping saw us nearly run out of guts during one climb, but that was expected given the little diesel engine. She’s climbed some pretty impressive ledges (thankyou limited slip diff!), ploughed through plenty of sand, clambered over sandy hills with SERIOUS dug out holes in the track that tested the cross axel articulation (eg hole in one side of the track at the front wheel, and another in the other side of the track at the rear wheel- one of the most difficult situations for a 4wd to maintain traction in) and crawled over rocky riverbeds without even a hint of scraping the underside. All this with only minimal reduction in tyre pressure – around 18psi is the lowest I’ve been so far as she’s got tubeless tyres and I don’t want to roll one off the rim. Ooops- serious four wheel drive guy has just passed out. I guess he couldn’t handle the thought of someone going Outback with tubeless tyres!
So why did I buy Cindy if I knew so much about ‘hard core’ four wheel drives? Why didn’t I get a LandPatrol Discoverover? Well, it all came down to price.
I was on a serious budget when we were buying the car. I had $5000 to play with and that was absolutely it. Five grand had to get me a car, completely ready to go around Australia, that would not let us down in the outback, that was registered, insured, and with some kind of road side assistance. That is a VERY big ask. Several times I nearly had to push back the leaving date so I could save more and blow the budget out to about $8000. But I did it- I got the perfect car and haven’t looked back since.
I wanted a four wheel drive to open up our options when we were travelling. I didn’t want to be stuck on good dirt roads and tarmac, and I definitely didn’t want to be in a situation where we looked at a road and were unsure if we’d make it. The NT has shown me many roads like this- good dirt roads that any 2wd or campervan would get down without a problem, except that they crossed a number of creeks. And they don’t bother with bridges out there, so you’d struggle to get a 2tonne van through a lot of the crossings.
So I started shopping, and shortlisted a few options: 80’s landcrusers, early 90’s Hilux/4runners, Nissan Pathfinders, Patrols, Mitsubishi Pajeros and Holden Jackaroos. Landrovers didn’t make the cut- Discoverys hold their value fairly well, and Defenders and 110’s were too noisy, and Range Rovers were too thirsty. I love Land Rovers, but there is one other problem- reliability. Breakdowns are a hassle, but can also be a great adventure and opportunity to meet interesting people in remote locations. However, they cost MONEY. And given that a single significant breakdown would probably mean the end of the trip due to using up all our funds, they were to be avoided at all costs. Good bye Landrover!
Next was the Land Cruiser option. At our pricepoint, we were looking at VERY old crusers, often with 400,000 kms on them! Toyota may be a brand with a reputation for reliability, but with 400,000kms already under the wheels, nothing is guaranteed. Then came the Hilux/4Runner option. Lauren’s parents have one, and its seen 360,000 kms and still going strong. However, I found that they also held their value really well, and the best one I could find came in at about $6,200. With some serious bargaining, I may have managed $5,600 or so, but that still blew the budget. Also, they’re pretty small inside the cabin and pretty stiffly sprung, so the ride is pretty average.
Then there was the Pathfinders- also too small inside, and didn’t seem to suffer the Kms so well. The stuff I looked at had around 200,000kms on it and was pretty clapped out. That left the Patrols- and there was some pretty good buying to be done. We narrowly missed out on a MQ Patrol with a 2.8 litre petrol engine that was in MINT condition. It had been clearly owned by an old boy who’d polished it every weekend. It would have been interesting to see how the 2.8 handled all the weight we put in it, but as I said, it got sold whilst I was trying to sort out a RACV check on it. I looked at loads of other Patrols, but again, the age was a factor at our price point. The 3.0 litre petrol ones were almost affordable, but a lot of them seemed to have knackered bottom ends.
Next the Pajeros. The 80’s vintage Paj seemed to be pretty good value, but all I found in my searching was clapped out rust buckets (rust in the roof was a big problem!) and dodgy grey imports. No dice.
Finally, the Jackaroos. I drove a contender at a car yard early on in the search, which is what put them on the map. A bit small, but the cabin space was better than a 4runner or a Pathfinder. And they are cheap! There also seemed to be a number of them that had been really well looked after. I looked at both the first generation and the second generation, but in the end the 2nd gen ones (post 1990) were too expensive. So finally I found Lauper sitting in a mechanic’s workshop in Malvern... 129,000 kms on the clock, immaculate interior and paintwork, and most importantly, it was one of only TWO cars (out of what must have been around 50 I looked at) that had seen a grease gun in the last few years. The other one was a patrol that a couple of Israeli guys had driven to Cape York and back... mechanically excellent, but the body was a bit stuffed!
Lauper was a bit expensive. The guy wanted $5000 for her, and the other 85 Jackaroos were generally going for $3,500. However, this was registered til October, had a RWC and brand new tyres. After some serious negotiations I got him down to $4,200 and picked her up on New Year’s Day.
I got a bargain. After getting her home and conducting a service (all oils/filters, repack wheel bearings, full grease), I got a true sense of just how good the condition of the car was. She has clearly been loved, with everything in superb condition. Even the under bonnet area looks like it just rolled off the factory line. I’ve seen cars at shows that would have had dirtier engine bays that Lauper had when I picked her up.
She didn’t have any oil leaks (that’s changed- thank Margaret River Auto electrics for the new oil leak. More later) and everywhere you looked she was clean and well maintained. She’s since done 14 thousand km/s and the only trouble has been with the Alternator, which is more to do with the salty water crossing that it endured than the overall condition of it at the start of the trip. The previous owner must have been seriously anal. I wonder if his wife was jealous of how much attention he paid the car...
This post is getting far too long, so I’m going to leave it there for now. There’s more to tell... a fair bit of work went into preparing Cindy for this trip, and I’ll bore you with that another time. I’m off to do a job interview now, so wish me luck.

*half-dead donkey power, an imperial measure of power output that has fallen out of use since the advent of engines that actually produce reasonable power outputs.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Perthology 101 lecture 1: Water water everywhere so let’s go have a drink

Kms so far: More than last time, but not by much- only really moved the car from one side of the road to the other. Oh, and took it up the shops to get some milk on a particularly lazy day.

It’s funny how my ability to be bothered blogging is inversely proportional to internet/electricity availability. Ever since arriving in Perth, getting a house (with electricity! And running water! And it’s not made of canvas!) and sorting out cheapo wireless access, I’ve only managed one blog. I’d like to be able to say that this is due to packing out every hour of every day with various activities of cultural significance, but that would be a lie. I guess it’s down to me being lazy.
That’s probably not a completely fair statement... I have been a bit lazy, but I have also not been doing a great deal that would justify a post that matches the excitement, cunning and adventure of all my previous posts (BTW, if this is the first post you have read, please do not read back any further. The last statement was a slight exaggeration and you are sure to be disappointed at the lack of perilous rope bridge crossings or battles with crocodiles). It’s not that Perth is boring – Perth is very interesting – but that cities are expensive and we are running out of cash. So here’s a summary of what we have been doing: Parks, Beaches, Museum.
Perth’s parks are pretty amazing by the standards of most Australian cities. Whilst the east coast observes severe water restrictions (most of the observation is done out the back window, across the patch of dirt where the lawn used to be), Perth is saturated with full fountains, freshly manicured lawns of lush green grass and dozens of lakes. Take the Kings Park, overlooking the city from West Perth. This park is mad- The view of the city is magnificent, as is the view over the swan river. The grounds are immaculate with plenty of space for everyone to get a patch of grass and chill out. The botanical gardens are pretty interesting – especially the Boab tree that they shipped in from the Pilbra. In all, I think it slots in to my top 5 urban parks quite nicely.
Perth’s beaches are also very impressive. The coast is an easy drive from most places (it takes us about 20 mins to get from the CBD to ‘city beach’) and when you are there, the water is amazing. It’s cold, but well worth the shrinkage because the water is usually very clear and refreshing. There’s also often some good surf around for those that care.
The other thing we did a few weeks ago was head down to the Art Gallery of Western Australia. This I would strongly recommend- their collection is magnificent. It’s permanent collection is showcased in an exhibit called ‘Wonderlust’, a well presented mix of contemporary and more classical pieces of indigenous, Australian and International art. It includes the picture of a swagman that used to sit above our fireplace that my parents must have donated (what? It was a print? Never!)... yep, Frederick McCubbin makes an appearance with ‘Down on his luck’.
My favourite piece was the Bicycle by James Angus... that dude missed his calling- he could have been an amazing boiler maker with metal working skills like that!
So Perth is alright by my book. We’ll be here for a while, so hopefully I’ll be able to give you a few more insights into life in the highly civilised ‘Wild West’.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Mobile internet access for the financially challenged.

Location: Perth, WA

Kms so far: 12671 (1200ish kms since the last oil change)

We are now in Perth. I’m also now a Telstra Wireless broadband user…
So you need to get yourself some wireless broadband access pronto, but don’t want to fork out $129 for a piece o’ crap usb modem that must have a real value of around 2.3 cents, and also don’t fancy getting stuck with a 36 month contract at some stupidly extortionate rate… what do you do? You do what I did…
Go buy yourself a $2 Telstra Next G prepaid phone sim starter pack from an Aussie Post outlet. Call ‘em up to activate and specify that you want it to be a Prepaid Wireless Broadband SIM. Whack the SIM in a 850mhz UTMS over WCDMA compatible phone (erm, pretty much all current generation phones… in my case, my girlfriends W910i, recently unlocked from the 3 network), do some quick config, connect the USB cable to your PC and Bob is your uncle.
You can go even further… snap up a Telstra prepaid phone pack and then use that as your dedicated modem. Most handsets will work- you can get em from 40 odd bucks. I’ve just scooped up a 100 buck jobbie (a ZTE T6) that has an external antenna connection, so I’d say that I’ll source 7db gain antenna before heading bush again. That’ll mean I can update this blog from random campsites in the middle of no-where…
More on Perth later.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Civilization: always a slap in the face.

Location: Margaret River

Kms so far: 10255 (255 kms overdue for a service)

Several things have occurred since the last post, most prominently the triumphant return of Lauper and her increasingly tee-shirt tanned cargo of two fuzzy travelers to proper Aussie suburbia. Combine this with a dying alternator, a hangover that’s directly related to Bundaburg rum consumption (Eh? Bundy? When was that ever a good idea?) and you are looking down the barrel of what promises to be an interesting post…
Last night we caught up with my mate Ryan at the Cat Empire gig in Busselton. The gig was great- the Cat still manage to rock a crowd even though I openly admit that I haven’t listened to much of their stuff in many months. The best bit was catching up with Ryan- seeing familiar faces while you are on the road reminds you why this is an around Australia trip rather than an across Australia trip, terminating in the opposite site of the country from sunny Melbourne.
Busselton itself was quite interesting. I’m not sure what its primary industry is, but it is a bustling suburbia, complete with numerous ‘lifestyle’ shops ready to sell you the latest design of crappy couch and a bigger telly so that you don’t become a social outcast due to the lack of flat panels in your life. Talking to Ryan seemed to indicate that most of the coast south of Perth is like this… perhaps Busselton is like Mornington, part of the unofficial suburban sprawl of its nearby capital.
What was most interesting about Busselton, however, was the return to suburban ambiance. Albany (which we visited a few weeks ago) was a much bigger town by population standards and even had similar retail services. However, Albernites (as I have now christened them) seem to be immune to the sterility that seems to be part of the great Australian suburban dream. Backing this statement up with a solid argument requires more brain cells than are presently available considering the toll that Bundy cans took last night, so I may have to return to this in future posts.
Anyways, the other current focus is a bung alternator. Cindy is displaying a charge light at idle, usually extinguishing at around 1500 to 2000 rpm or so. A mechanic at the Caltex in Augusta kindly put a voltmeter across the battery (for free!) and confirmed that it is still charging, and not overcharging, so we’ve been proceeding with crossed fingers until we can get an Auto Electrician to strip it down and see what’s going on. This happens on Monday, here in Margaret River, so naturally we booked a winery tour for the same day. That way we’ll be sufficiently inebriated when we have to accept what, no doubt, will be very expensive news on Monday afternoon. Cost aside, this needs to be fixed because the Alternator charges both our batteries, one of which powers our fridge, which in turn keeps the white goon (read: boxed wine) cold. Any failure to have Cindy supply us with cold goon would be catastrophic to our morale…
Anyways, I’m off to find meat pie.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

I hate climbing mountains. I love mountain climbing.

Location: AlmaMay’s internet café (try the Rocky Road! Delicious!), Albany, Western Australia

Kms so far: 8341

So around about an hour into the climb up Bluff Knoll in the Sterling Ranges National Park, about an hour north of Albany in the south west of Western Australia, it occurred to me that I hate climbing mountains. Let me say that I love mountain climbing. I’ve climbed Mt Bogong several times, Mt Hotham (not in a car… on foot you putz), Cradle Mountain; I’ve even had a crack at Jbel Toubkal, the highest mountain in North Africa at 4100 odd metres. Every time I do something like this it seems like such a great idea… until I start climbing.
Now I’m not 180kg couch potato. I’m in pretty good shape, eating well, riding to work (back in my working days!) and generally limiting myself to one Kabab a week. But I’m not Sir Edmund Hillary, a significant fact that I overlook each time I coin the idea of a wonder up the nearest mountain. And at the hour mark, around a kilometre and a half along (and 500 metres up this 700 metre climb), I begin to wonder whether my Victorian Ambulance Service membership is valid in the back country of Western Australia. I also tend to wonder how they’d land a helicopter on a 50° slope. My mind wonders across the topic of heart transplant waiting lists in public hospitals…
Lucky for me (and the Albany Search and Rescue service) not long after this the track started to level out, the tree cover broke and the summit emerged, 1095 metres above sea level. The combination of the endorphins and the views across the Sterling Ranges, rising like some kind of green tinted mass Pavlova plonked directly in the middle of flat and uninteresting farming plains took away what little of my breath I had left.
I guess it’s a metaphor for anything worthwhile in life. Truly great things require masses of effort, often leading you to the edge of your capabilities where you teeter on the brink, unsure if your next step will be one further along your chosen path or will have you plunging down the chasm of failure. If you muster the courage to plunder on and make it to your chosen destination, the feeling that it brings is true euphoria.
…Except when some jammy bastard strides past, nodding a cheery ‘Hello’ and looking as though they’ve done nothing more arduous than wonder down the street for a paper. Looks like I need to start jogging.


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P.S. I've uploaded the first lot of photos of the trip to date to my Flickr page. You can view 'em down the bottom in my new Flickr gadget, or by going to Flickr.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Life's a beach

Location – Cape Arid National Park, Western Australia

Kms so far: 6737

As much as Cape Arid National Park is accurately named in some respects, it may not be the most appropriate name for the place. Admittedly, the countryside that forms the majority of the park initially appears to be quite arid- kilometre after kilometre of low scrub, the only interest being the ‘Kanagroo tails’ that poke into the air every couple of metres. Kanagroo Tails are a small bush that grows a flower that is tall and narrow, standing to about one and a half metres tall. The flower itself is a dark red/brown colour. When viewed from a distance, they look a lot like a Kangaroo’s tail sticking straight up out of the scrub… hence the name.
However, Cape Arid could have equally been called Cape White Sandy Beaches and Turquoise Blue Ocean. I guess that name didn’t fit on the map so well, so that’s why they settled for Cape Arid. The beaches here are textbook- headlands formed of exposed granite that rises out of the unbelievably blue sea on a 45 degree angle, hosting a butter knife smooth spread of perfectly white sand. The beaches are also quite sheltered due to the nature of the coast around here, yet the relatively small surf still churns deep troughs and hides a significant undertow. So not quite paradise… Looks like my search for the perfect beach continues. It’s a hard life!
Anyways, enough about the beaches- time to bring you up to date on what’s happened over the last couple of weeks. We left Melbourne (for the second time!) on the 26th of January and picked up the Great Ocean Road at Lorne. We stopped the first night in Skenes Creek, then Johanna before heading for the Lower Glenelg national park. The ocean road is, as always, amazing. However places like Lorne and Apollo Bay really feel a bit over developed now- too many cafés and fine dining experiences to accurately fit my impressions of a sleepy costal town.
The lower Glenelg national park was a welcome change of pace. We knew this when the well fed, hairy and shirtless caretaker rode up on his four wheeler to collect the 15 buck camping fees… definitely no chance of a skinny mac here. The park was full of gum forrest along the banks of the Glenelg river, which is much of the focus of the park. You can actually hire canoes and paddle up the river for days as there is about five campsites only accessable in this way. We considered it, but decided the money would be better spent on adventures in other states.
We then headed for Mt Gambier, which apart from the blue lake held little interest for us. It was then on to the Coorong National Park where we crossed onto the Younghusband Peninsula over the salt flats. There was a lot of water about considering the drought that we’ve been experiencing.

I’m now running out of internet time, so a short summary of stops over the last week should bring you up to date:
Adelaide (checked out the Hieghs chocolate factory… mmmm…)
Barossa valley for wine tastings
Innes National park to swim!
Coffin bay national park
Lincon National Park
Nullabor (or is that Nulla- bored?)
Cape Le Grand national park (more swimming!)

More laters… off to Stokes National park now.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Leaving... again

Well, the last twenty six days have been a little hectic...

I managed to buy a car on the 1st of January, which was cutting it a little fine, even by my standards. Our designated leaving date was the twelth of January, leaving little time to service the car, fit dual batteries, a new stereo, move house (for both me and my girlfriend), have a fairwell bash, an engagement party (not mine!) and also manage to find a couple of days to finish up work in there somewhere...

But we've done it. We actually left on the 16th, a few days late... mostly due to finishing stuff off on the car. Let me tell you a little about it: Its a glorious 1985 Holden Jackaroo, finished in two tone white and grey, with some loverly 80's vintage decals. We've christened it Cindy Lauper, simply for the 80s connection. We've decieded to call her Cindy when she's bad, and Lauper when she's good. So far she's been Lauping all over the place, trecking through the Grampians and Blackwood without fault.

Back to leaving... so we left on the 16th, but had to return to Lethbridge on the 20th for some family stuff that Lauren needed to return for. We are now about to leave again... for good!Finally!

Today we head for the great ocean road. More to follow...